China Islamic

About ten years ago, I got my first taste of food from the northern, mostly Muslim areas of China at the old Tung Lai Shun in San Gabriel Square. After hunting around, I transferred my allegiance to Dumpling Master in Monterey Park with its mastery of lamb and tasty dumplings. I never got around to trying the other northern stalwart, Chinese Islamic in Rosemead, but I figured it was finally time to give it a try.

China Islamic is really two restaurants. As a halal Chinese restaurant, it caters to a mostly South Asian Muslim crowd in search of standard Chinese-American dishes. So there is beef with broccoli, sweet and sour beef, fried won tons and other standard American dishes sans pork. But, as noted, it also serves the cuisine of the Northern Chinese plains, and this means lamb. Lamb warm pot with picked cabbage had great flavor, tangier than many, but I wish the noodles had been hand cut.

Mongolian beef, a dish that caters to both sets of patrons, was one of the best versions I've had, with plenty of scallions and a rich but not viscous gravy. Lamb chow mein, though, paled in comparison to the spot-on version at Dumpling Master, and fried beef dumplings were too doughy with a filling that was too bland.

And of course, there is the mandatory starch at Islamic Chinese restaurants, scallion bread, served in large rounds that are sent out for to-go orders in pizza boxes. I like the thick version, studded with sesame seeds and filled with scallions, which is perfect for sopping up sauce.

China Islamic
7727 Garvey Avenue
Rosemead, CA 91770-3003
(626) 288-4246

Brandy Friday: Bang for Your Buck Brandy -- Fillioux Cognac Balzac VSOP

In an age of inflated spirit prices, there is something wonderful about a great drink at a good price. Jean Fillioux is one of my favorite Cognac houses, and I can't say I've ever had one of their brandies that I didn't love. At $35 to $40, though, the Fillioux Balzac VSOP is probably the best bang for your buck in the world of Cognac. Like most Fillioux brandies, the nose is pure Cognac -- what else is there to say? The flavor is rich and sweet, less wine like than some Cognacs, but fruity nonetheless. This is a smooth drinker, and one of the best deals around, so rest assured that drinking well doesn't have to mean breaking the bank.

Now, if you want to spend an excessive amount of money, tune in for the next Whiskey Wednesday, and I'll help you out.

Whiskey Wednesday: Olympic Whisky

Did you know that Laphroaig, that lovely, peaty, medicinal single malt Scotch, is the official Scotch of the United States Curling Association? Curling is of course, a rather strange Olympic event that involves teams competing on what appears to be a shuffleboard course covered in ice using brooms to furiously sweep around something that looks like a teapot. Curling was invented in Scotland, so the Scotch connection is clear, though I have to say it seems odd for an American association to have an official Scotch. I'm guessing that the British Curling Association does not have an official Bourbon. Of course, Laphroaig is owned by Beam Global, an American corporation, which may explain it.

Curling has been an official Olympic event since 1998 and is typically dominated by Switzerland, Norway and Canada. The US won its first curling medal, a bronze in men's curling, at Torino in 2006. It has developed what has been called a cult following in the US; I tried to watch some and its like watching, well, shuffleboard.

So far, the Laprhoaig does not seem to have helped the US teams, but at least they'll have good whisky.

Whiskey Wednesday: The Balvenie Guys (and Gals) Come to LA

Last week I attended Balvenie's tasting to kick off their new 17 year old Madeira cask whisky. Balvenie is, of course, one of the most popular Scotch whiskies in the US, loved for its smoothness and drinkability. Balvenie fans gathered at the Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills to sample the Balvenie range, including the 12 year old doublewood, 15 year old single cask and 21 year old port wood, as well as the new Madeira cask. The Madeira cask is a limited edition, annual release of Balvenies aged in different types of barrels (it was preceded by a rum cask). A large complement of Balvenie brand representatives were on hand to answer questions and engage in whisky-related banter, including veteran Global Ambassador David Mair, local representative Andrew Weir and the inimitable Dr. Whisky.

From my tastings at the event (disclaimer: event tastings are not as rigorous as my normal home-tastings), I found the Madeira cask to have some nice malt and some nice sweetness lasting into the finish that likely comes from that Madeira cask. Overall though, if I had to pick my favorite Balvenie, it would still be the 21 year old port wood, followed by the 15 year old single barrel. The port flavors of the 21 integrate well into the malt to give it some real heft and the 15 year old single barrel is a good, punchy whisky.

On the shelves, the 12 year old doublewood goes for around $40, the 15 year old single barrel is $50, the 21 year old port wood is $190 and the new Madeira cask is $120.

Thanks to all of the Balvenie folks who made the event possible. And a note to other distilleries: this free event had a great turnout and was filled with many whisky novices who will probably be buying a lot of Balvenie in the next months. Come to LA and let us taste your whisky!

Stick a Golden Fork in Me (and throw in a grilled quail)

The Golden Fork is an Armenian restaurant in possibly the smallest strip mall in LA. A tiny two shop operation with a cramped couple of parking spaces (luckily, there is plentiful parking on nearby Serrano Avenue).

The staff doesn't speak much in the way of English, but all you really have to know about is grilled meat. A grilled combination plate yields lamb kabob, lamb chops and chicken kabob, but more importantly, ultra-tender and juicy beef and chicken lula kabobs. Far from the often overcooked dry rocks that often pass for the Middle Eastern sausage, the Golden Fork's lula kabobs pop with juice as you bite into them.

The grilled quail, also part of the combo, is among the best I've had. It's tender with a good rub over its thin skin, and peeling it open reveals a special treat -- the intact heart. The combination is served with home-cut french fries, the best of which are at the bottom of the platter where they've soaked up the grease from the meat. Add a big platter of rice, and wash the whole think down with a fluorescent green Tarragon soda.

There is a selection of traditional mezza at Golden Fork as well, and while I liked the labne, most of them were unexceptional. They also have grilled fish on the menu, which would be worth a trip back to check out.



The Golden Fork
5341 Santa Monica Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90029-1105
(323) 467-2224‎

You Say Rum, I say Rhum: Depaz Rhum Agricole

Rhum Agricole (literally "agricultural rum" in French) is rum from the French Carribbean, principally Martinique. Unlike rums from the Anglo and Spanish Carribbean which are distilled from molasses, rhum agricole is distilled from sugar cane juice. This tends to give it a fresher, lighter quality than other rums.

Tasting

Depaz Blue Cane Rhum Agricole, Martinique - Saint-Pierre, 45% ($33)

Nose of fresh, sweet agave spirit and corn whiskey, not really rummy but a touch of sugar. Flavor is a smooth treat with hints of that agave. The corn whiskey nose yields to mulling spice and some cane sugar. Great stuff! Depaz is possibly the most drinkable rum I've had, and one of my favorite spirits on the market.

Mezcal Miercoles: Métl Añejo

Every now and then, Whiskey Wednesday crosses the border and is transformed into Mezcal Miercoles. Mezcal, as you may recall, is an agave based Mexican spirit. Most non-Tequila mezcals come from Oaxaca.

Today we are tasting the Métl añejo, 2002 special reserve. This mezcal is made from the espadin variety of agave, from which most mezcals are made. Métl is bottled by Jaguar Spirits, a Los Angeles area company which sources mezcal from Oaxaca (According to the company, métl is the Nahuatl word for agave).


Tasting

Métl añejo, 2012 Reserva Especial, 40% alcohol ($43.99)

The nose is almost Laphroaig like, smoky and briny with some sweetness and a big hit of agave. The taste is smoky but much smoother than the nose with some salt and brine.

I really enjoyed the smoky qualities on this Mezcal. If you are a fan of smoky spirits, you should definitely consider picking some up.