Thursday, March 31, 2011

Whiskey Friday: A Little Macallan I Picked Up on a Whim

Call it an impulse purchase, like the Kit Kats near the register at the grocery store. How could I resist a 64 year old Macallan in a lovely decanter? Sure it was expensive, but when was I going to get another shot at it, another chance for this experience of a lifetime. In order to give you, my readers, a view into this exclusive experience, I now shed the anonymity with which I purchased this lovely elixir, and give you my review:


Macallan Cire Perdue, 64 yo, 42.5% abv ($460,000)

The nose smells like crystal and ambrosia, manna from heaven, the sound of one hand clapping and the flutter of the wings of a butterfly. The palate reverberates with harmony and contentedness, triumph and exhilaration...If you are drinking this you have arrived, you have triumphed, but mid-palate there emerges a pang of remorse, the melancholy of a life gone by, the misty, foggy morning in which you realize that your innocence no longer beckons you from afar. The finish is tinged with regret at the lack of second chances, regrets that in a moment of great bravado, you bought a very precious bottle of whisky and now you live in a cardboard box under the freeway with three pillows, an old blanket and an empty, albeit lovely hand-blown crystal decanter that luckily holds more than a liter which is very useful given the paucity of public restrooms in Los Angeles.

Cire Perdue is a taste memory you will not soon forget.

Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Whiskey Wednesday: The Revival of American Blended Whiskey?

It seems as though nearly every spirit category has made a comeback in premium form in the last ten years. First it was single malts, then tequila and bourbon, followed by gin, rye, rum, mezcal, absinthe and now Canadian Whisky. Well, I try my best to be ahead of the curve, so I am getting out front in order to become the go-to blogger in my own category: American Blended Whiskey.

I am hereby announcing that American Blended Whiskey will be the next big thing. Now, I'm not talking about those high quality blends of straight whiskey that High West puts out. I'm talking about the real thing. To quote the official regulations, blended whiskey is:

[A] mixture which contains straight whisky or a blend of straight whiskies at not less than 20 percent on a proof gallon basis, excluding alcohol derived from added harmless coloring, flavoring or blending materials, and, separately, or in combination, whisky or neutral spirits.


For you non-lawyers out there, that's 20% whiskey (usually bourbon) and the other 80%composed of vodka and "harmless coloring, flavoring or blending materials." Mmmmmm, blending materials.

Think about it. Premium bourbon is huge but premium vodka is even bigger, so it only makes sense that combining the two would be the next big thing. It's only a matter of time before we start seeing 30 year old Kessler's in a hand blown plastic handle.

So from now on, Sku's Recent Eats will be your go to stop for reviews, history and commentary about American Blended Whiskey. Here are some of the posts I'm working on:


  • The Story of the Seagram's Seven, seven rectifiers jailed for their craft - putting neutral spirits and food coloring in their Bourbon.

  • Why plastic bottles are superior to glass.

  • How Kirin ruined Four Roses.

And I'll be doing some home experiments as well. I got me a bottle of Stagg, a bottle of Absolut and some old Easter egg dye, so I'm ready to go. Stay tuned!

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Grills Without Borders: Border Grill Downtown

Border Grill has long been an LA area fixture. Long before Babita and Rivera, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken were cooking up high end Mexican treats in Santa Monica. Recently they converted their pan-Latin downtown spot, Ciudad, into another outlet of Border Grill. I've often been to the Santa Monica BG, but this was my first trip to the downtown spot, on Figueroa directly across from the Westin Bonaventure Hotel.

The look, feel and menu are pretty similar to the Santa Monica location. I haven't been to Santa Monica recently enough to know if the new things I found on the menu are specific to the downtown location or available in both, but along with the old standbys (green corn tamales, conchinita pibil, plantain empenadas among others) was a roasted potato rajas relleno, a potato rajas (in cream) stuffed in a poblano pepper and topped with a salad of quinoa, greens, tortilla strips and their tangy salsa verde and tomato salsa. Good stuff and something I'd never seen on the Santa Monica menu. This was a nice dish, fresh and tangy, though I wish the pepper had just a bit of heat.

My favorite dessert at the Santa Monica branch is the Mexican chocolate cream pie. The version downtown is similar except that instead of a meringue crust, it has a chocolate cookie crust. The cookie crust is good, but I prefer the meringue.

Basically, though, this place is a pretty identical to Santa Monica, so if you are a fan of that location but live further east, this is a good deal for you, and walking in without reservations, I was able to get a table for 5 on a Friday night. That's hard to beat.

Border Grill Downtown
445 S. Figueroa St.
Los Angeles, CA 90071
(213) 486-5171

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Farcical Cuisine

What's more ludicrous than a $12,000 bottle of whiskey, more pretentious then a dinner at Joel Robuchon and weighs more than Mario Batali?

It's Modernist Cuisine, the new five volume, 2,400 page, $650 molecular gastronomy cookbook by Microsoft tycoon Nathan Myhrvold. Yes, you read correctly. It is a $650 cookbook.

The photos, judging from the website and numerous reviews, appear to be stunning, and for some reason, feature lots of things cut in half, but does the world really need this overhyped monstrosity? No less, I suppose, than we need $12,000 bottles of whiskey.

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Whiskey Wednesday: Whiskey, Age and Oxygen Part 2



Two years ago, I started a little experiment to discern how oxidation impacts whiskey in an open bottle. The query I was addressing was the age old question of how long your whiskey will last once you crack open the bottle. As I said in that post:

Answering this question is harder than you might think and there are different schools of thought. Once you uncork the seal and pour a glass, you let oxygen into the whiskey bottle so oxidation is a possibility. Just how long such oxidation takes and under what circumstances is not clear.

It is common lore among whiskey fans that once a bottle is half full or less, you should drink it within 18 months to prevent oxidation and a change in flavor. Others, however, swear that whiskey can last for years at a low level and have virtually no ill effects.


So, to test this out, on December 30, 2008, I opened a new bottle of Longmorn 16 and poured it into three mini bottles. One I filled to the top such that virtually no air was left in the bottle, a second I filled approximately half way, and a third I filled to about a quarter of the way full (see picture above).

These bottles have been quietly sitting in my closet for the past two years and two months, and now it has come time to find the results of our experiment. I poured an equal measure of each whiskey into tasting glasses.

I started by tasting the whiskey from the full bottle, just to gauge my taste. This bottle had minimal oxygen exposure so it becomes the control. Part of the reason I chose Longmorn 16 for this experiment is that it's fairly subtle in flavor profile; it isn't strongly peated or sherried, flavors which can cover up many flaws. It is lightly sherried, and its general character is malty and grassy.

Now to the half bottle. The nose and flavor were pretty much identical to the full bottle. I found no discernible difference between the full bottle and the half full bottle.

And finally, the quarter fill. The nose on the quarter fill was much lighter and less forceful than on the others. While the same notes were there, they were much harder to pick up. Upon tasting it, the flavor of the quarter filled bottle was much weaker than the other two. It was lighter in character, and some of the stronger and sweeter notes had dulled, giving way to a base (as opposed to acid) type of taste. Overall, while there were certainly traces of the same flavor notes, there was a lack of dimension and complexity and a general dulling of flavor in the quarter filled bottle compared to the other malts.

I have to say that I am surprised as I had always been skeptical of the theory that whiskey would deteriorate in the bottle over two years, but this one certainly had. I don't want to overstate the deterioration. It was still plenty drinkable, but as I noted, it lacked the sharpness of flavor found in the fuller bottles.

To conclude, it seems that somewhere between a half bottle and a quarter bottle there is a point at which deterioration takes place. While it would take more exacting experimentation to find that precise point (which may well vary based on all sorts of factors), I think it's safe to say that the results of this experiment support the general thesis that it is a good idea not to let a bottle that is much less than half full languish in the cupboard for a two year period.

I guess it's time for me to start draining some of those low fill bottles in the closet.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Cheese Pick: Der Scharfe Maxx

This week's cheese pick is Der Scharfe Maxx, a pungent, raw milk, Swiss cow cheese made by the Studer Dairy and aged six months. I love this stuff. It really knocks you out with a deep stink, but the taste has everything you love about Swiss cheese, magnified by ten. Drink it with a sweet white wine, or better yet, beer...yum.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

Home Affogatos



One of the best things about having a home espresso machine is the ability to make affogatos. It's shocking how something this simple can be this delicious. To wit: one small scoop of vanilla ice cream, one shot of freshly pulled espresso; I add a dollop of wet whip cream. Heaven in a cup.

Hey, pour in a shot of Irish Whiskey and this would make for a great St. Patrick's Day treat, sort of an Irish Coffee on steroids.